Harmony in the Land of Blambangan: Rituals, Water, and the Agrarian Life of Banyuwangi
A thin veil of mist still clings to the hillsides, while the sound of clear water rushes through small channels winding between the rice paddies. In the morning light, the green-gold hues of local rice grains shimmer as their stalks begin to bend toward the earth. In the distance, wisps of incense smoke and the fragrance of bunga setaman—a traditional arrangement of fresh flowers—gently mingle with the earthy scent of freshly turned soil.
For the Osing people, every rice field in the land of Blambangan is a sacred space—a place where spirituality, respect for nature, and agricultural wisdom come together. In the Osing indigenous worldview, farming is a form of dialogue with and reverence for Dewi Sri, the goddess associated with life and fertility, as well as the Creator. The earth is regarded as a living body that must be treated with care, respect, and a commitment to sustainability.
This harmony is reflected in the cultivation of crops suited to the volcanic ecology of Mount Ijen and Mount Raung. Banyuwangi is renowned for its distinctive organic rice cultivation, including varieties such as Menthik Wangi and organic red rice, nourished by mineral-rich water flowing down from the mountains. Rice is not the only crop thriving here. Around settlements and in household gardens, modern horticulture has also flourished, including dragon fruit. At night, the lights used to stimulate flowering and fruit production transform the surrounding agricultural landscape into a striking sea of illumination. Banyuwangi is also known for its coffee and distinctive red durian.
Before the planting season begins, Alasmalang Village comes alive with the iconic Kebo-Keboan tradition. This ritual, performed to ward off misfortune and invoke fertility, involves villagers entering a trance believed to be associated with ancestral spirits and dressing as buffaloes (kebo), complete with black mud covering their bodies and handmade horns. The buffalo is regarded as a sacred symbol and as the farmer’s traditional working companion in cultivating the land. During the ritual, participants plough the rice fields and carry rice seedlings in a procession around the village, accompanied by prayers for protection from pests and an abundant supply of water.
When the seedlings are ready to be planted, a practice known as tandur, Osing farmers hold a Slametan Tani at the edge of the rice field. Small offerings, including tumpeng and jenang abang, are prepared as expressions of gratitude and prayer. When harvest season arrives, thanksgiving continues through traditions such as Barong Ider Bumi and the communal Tumpeng Sewu feast, both of which serve as expressions of unity and strengthen bonds within the community.
The success of Banyuwangi’s rice farming has long been supported by traditional water-management institutions known as Ulu-Ulu Tani. This customary institution is responsible for distributing irrigation water from the region’s volcanic rivers fairly and transparently among farmers’ fields, particularly during the dry season. Those entrusted with managing the water are guided by a form of moral leadership that commands community respect, helping to prevent disputes over access to irrigation.
On the rice fields, the spirit of solidarity is expressed through traditions such as sengkuyung or sambat—forms of communal cooperation in which farmers work together without monetary payment, from preparing the soil and planting crops to threshing the rice (gepyok) during harvest. Joy and hardship are shared collectively, on the same expanse of earth and mud.
In the modern era, Osing agricultural traditions have proven remarkably adaptable. Banyuwangi has emerged as a national example of efforts to develop certified organic rice production and environmentally responsible smart farming. Yet the challenges of global climate change—including shifting rainfall patterns—as well as the continued threat of agricultural land conversion, remain. The resilience of the Osing community, however, is deeply rooted in its cultural heritage. A growing number of indigenous young people are returning to the fields, combining local knowledge with digital technology and agro-tourism education. Their efforts offer an important foundation for safeguarding Banyuwangi’s agrarian future.
From the rippling waters of its irrigation channels to the echoes of the Kebo-Keboan ritual, the Osing people of Banyuwangi continue to demonstrate that honoring tradition can be a powerful way of nurturing the future.
